USING ENERGY AND NATURAL GAS WISELY
What is Natural Gas?
Natural gas is made up of hydrocarbon gases, primarily methane. It is usually
found deep below the earth's surface, often with deposits of oil, and is removed
by wells that are drilled to access the petroleum deposits.
After it reaches the surface, the gas is separated from any oil or water that
may have been present in the petroleum deposit. It is then processed to remove
impurities, other gases such as propane and butane, and any remaining water
or water vapor.
Why use Natural Gas?
Natural gas is a fuel of choice because it is:
· Efficient
· Clean-burning (emits few pollutants)
· Flexible
· Plentiful
Natural gas is the cleanest-burning fossil fuel. Environmental concerns have
led to a number of new uses for gas to take advantage of its clean-burning characteristics.
For example, electric generation facilities are choosing to build and install
gas-fired turbines and to use natural gas in conjunction with other fuels to
reduce emissions.
How is Natural Gas Transported?
Natural gas is transported in an underground system of large-diameter pipes.
The force that propels the gas is its pressure, which gradually dissipates as
it travels through the pipeline. A series of compressor stations are positioned
along the pipeline's path. Each station has a number of large compressors that
increase the pressure of the gas to push it to the next station along the line.
Who Uses Natural Gas?
There are five main groups of natural gas users.
· Residential users: use natural gas in their homes
to fuel furnaces and appliances such as stoves, water heaters and clothes dryers.
· Commercial users: use natural gas in businesses such
as restaurants, hotels, and hospitals.
· Industrial users: use natural gas for heating processes
and as fuel for the generation of steam.
· Electric utilities: use natural gas to generate electricity.
· Natural gas pipeline companies: use natural gas as
a fuel to run compressor units.
Industry Sectors
Over 200,000 miles of transmission pipelines deliver natural gas to more than
160 million North American consumers in the United States, Canada and Mexico.
While most electric energy is delivered through integrated utility companies,
four industry segments coordinate to bring natural gas from producing wells
to homes and industry. Pipelines serve as the highways of the gas industry,
making it possible for gas sellers and buyers to reach each other.
Gathering & Processing
Natural gas is a commodity produced by major oil and gas companies and independent
gas producers and traded in a competitive market.
During the production phase, gas producers use advanced technology to locate
and drill for gas reserves. Gas is pumped from wells into gathering lines. Gathering
operations bring natural gas to processing plants that remove moisture and impurities
from the gas stream, and to separate liquid byproducts. Today, we consume about
22 trillion cubic feet of gas per year, which is about 25 percent of the energy
consumed in the United States.
Transportation & Storage
Interstate natural gas pipelines are transportation companies, like railroads
or trucking companies. They do not own the commodity they carry in their pipelines
or store in their underground facilities. Their job is to move natural gas from
producing areas to market areas under contract to gas buyers. Buyers such as
local gas distribution companies and marketers resell the natural gas to their
customers. Others transport directly to industrial and electric generation facilities.
The Federal Energy Regulatory Commission (FERC) sets transportation and storage
rates charged by pipeline companies; however, FERC requires pipelines to operate
"open access" systems that allow any shipper to request gas transportation
on any pipeline.
Local Distribution
If you have gas service in your home, your meter reader works for a local distribution
company (LDC). LDCs contract for gas supplies and for interstate pipeline transportation
to bring natural gas to their own "city gates," where they deliver
gas to homes, businesses and industrial plants served by their own distribution
pipelines. State public service authorities regulate these distribution companies
and their sales.
Calendar provided by:
This Gas System and the
American Public Gas Association
NATURAL GAS FACTS AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
DOT’s final RP-1162 Community Awareness
regulations have been recently issued. The prototype safety language shown here
will be replaced with specific RP-1162 language covering 2-pages of the calendar.
When considering order size, please remember that RP-1162 requires you to inform
your customers and non customers living or working along your system. The calendar
would be an economical way to help demonstrate your compliance
with RP-1162 and to maintain a 13-month in-the-home promotion for natural gas
appliances.
Natural Gas is lighter than air, non-toxic and contains no poisonous ingredients.
Breathing natural gas is not harmful as long as there is an adequate supply
of fresh air to breathe along with it. Natural gas by itself will not burn.
Combustion or explosion can occur only when there is a mixture of gas and air
containing between 5%-15% of natural gas and an ignition source.
An odorant that smells like rotten eggs is added to natural gas so that it
can be detected.
(1) If you SMELL A FAINT ODOR of natural gas INSIDE YOUR HOME OR BUSINESS:
Investigate immediately.
If the source of the odor cannot be located or corrected, call Chester County
Natural Gas immediately (24 hours a day). A Chester County Natural Gas representative
will come to your home or business and make an inspection at no charge to you.
Open flames or sparks can ignite natural gas. That is why unburned natural
gas should never be allowed to escape into a room.
Do not smoke or strike a match and never operate an electric switch, flashlight,
lighter or telephone. Each of these can ignite natural gas.
Immediately open the doors and windows and quickly check to see if any appliances
have been left on accidentally or if a pilot light has been extinguished, which
would cause the odor (rotten eggs).
If the odor persists, TAKE NO CHANCES, get out of the house immediately, then
call Chester County Natural Gas from a nearby phone.
Because of its unique qualities of being lighter than air with a narrow bank
of combustion, natural gas is the safest energy source available. Understanding
and following safety procedures will make it even safer.
(2) If a STRONG OR PERSISTENT ODOR OF GAS is present IN YOUR HOME OR BUSINESS,
or if you hear A HISSING SOUND of escaping natural gas, follow this procedure:
Get everyone out of the building immediately.
Leave the door open.
Use a neighbor’s phone or cellular phone outside of the building to call
Chester County Natural Gas Authority.
DO NOT operate any electrical switches or appliance controls and do not pull
any plugs from outlets.
DO NOT call from the building.
Close cut-off valve near the gas meter and DO NOT turn it on again. (A Chester
County Natural Gas representative will turn it on).
If possible, ventilate the building by opening doors and windows at the top
and bottom. Start where the odor is the strongest. DO NOT re-enter the building
for this purpose.
(3) If you SMELL OR DETECT NATURAL GAS OUTSIDE, call Chester County Natural
Gas Authority immediately.
FLAMMABLE VAPORS AND APPLIANCES ARE A DANGEROUS MIX
Vapors from flammable liquids can explode and catch fire causing death or severe
burns. VAPORS cannot be seen. They are heavier than air and can go a long way
on the floor. They can be carried from other rooms to the pilot flame by air
currents.
DO NOT use or store flammable products such as gasoline, solvents, or adhesives
in the same room or area near the water heater or any other gas appliance. KEEP
FLAMMABLE PRODUCTS far away from your appliances in approved containers, tightly
closed and out of the reach of Children.
Gas appliances such as water heaters that are installed in open garages must
be installed eighteen inches (18”) above the level of the garage floor.
This reduces the risk of gasoline or other flammable vapors being ignited by
the main burner or pilot flame. Keep paper, curtains, paints, solvents, etc.,
away from gas appliances. They can be a fire hazard.
CARBON MONOXIDE
Carbon Monoxide is an odorless, tasteless, non-visible gas that can be formed
when fuels like charcoal, coal, gasoline, kerosene, natural gas, oil, propane
or wood are burned without a sufficient supply of air. Carbon Monoxide can be
produced when appliances are not properly installed, maintained or used; when
vent pipes become clogged with debris; when vent pipes have gaps, leaks, spaces
and rust-thru spots; also when appliances are improperly vented and too many
appliances are vented to one vent pipe. Exposure to Carbon Monoxide poisons
the body and can cause serious illness or death. Symptoms may include headaches,
dizziness, and nausea. The best prevention for carbon monoxide problems is to
have appliances installed properly and periodically inspected.
WATER TEMPERATURES OVER 125 DEGREES CAN CAUSE SEVERE BURNS
Children, the disabled and the elderly are at highest risk of being scalded.
See instruction manual before setting the temperature at the water heater. Feel
water before bathing or showering. Temperature limiting valves are available.
See your water heater owner’s manual.
ACCIDENT PREVENTION BEFORE YOU DIG
Whether you are building an addition, laying a patio, planting a garden, or
just digging a posthole for a mailbox or if you plan to excavate, trench, bore,
blast, drill, grade, or just dig somewhere, South Carolina state law requires
you to call the utilities in the area or the Palmetto Utility Protection Service
at 1-800-922-0983, 72 hours prior to such excavation. All expenses for the utility
locating service are paid by the utilities in an effort to prevent damages to
their system. PUPS will in turn notify us and other member utilities that may
be in the area of your project. We will then locate our facilities and work
with you to ensure the safety of your project and our gas lines.
If a gas main or service line is exposed during digging, call Chester County
Natural Gas Authority. Proper attention to pipe that has been exposed can prevent
problems later. HEATING SAVING TIPS
Lower your thermostat setting in the winter. With each degree you lower your
thermostat you can reduce your energy consumption about 5%. Set your thermostat
5 degrees to 10 degrees lower during sleeping hours.
In the winter, set the thermostat back to 55 degrees when no one is home for
at least 4 hours or more.
On sunny winter days, let the sun help warm your house by opening your shades
and drapes, especially on windows that face east, west or south. Window curtains
facing north should be kept shut. At night or on cloudy days, keep all curtains
and shades closed. This will help keep heat from escaping.
Rearrange furniture by placing it against inside walls – you're less
likely to feel cool drafts if you're not sitting next to the outside walls.
If you are going to be away from your house for an extended period of time,
lower the thermostat to the lowest possible setting, but do not shut it off.
The lowest possible setting will give you protection from pipe freezing. Natural
gas heat will recover quickly after you return.
In the winter, adjust your heating registers so that the hot air flows down
across the floor. Remember, warm air rises.
Reversing ceiling fans in wintertime will keep the rising heat away from the
ceiling and distribute it more evenly around the room, especially in rooms with
particularly hot spots (like rooms with a wood stove).
For gas furnaces, make sure there's a good supply of air available so that
the gas burns efficiently and safely.
Use kitchen, bath and other ventilating fans sparingly in cold weather. In
just one hour, these fans can blow away a household of warm air.
HEATING AND COOLING SAVING TIPS
Don't heat or cool unused space in your home. Close registers in extra rooms.
However, do not close more than 20 percent of the registers in your home. This
might interfere with the operation of the central heating/cooling system. Adjust
vents to keep specific rooms of your home at a desired temperature. Heat rises,
so you may want to partially close upstairs vents. Check with your heating contractor
to see if this will work well with your heating system design.
A dirty filter can drive up the cost of heating and cooling your home. Change
or clean filters in heating and cooling units at least six times a year.
Try to keep closet doors shut. Clothes or stored items do not need to be heated
or cooled.
Closets and cabinets on outside walls can leak a great deal of air, so make
sure the doors fit snugly and keep them tightly closed.
Move furniture away from your heating/cooling registers. Blocked registers
make furnaces/air conditioners work harder and inhibit proper air circulation,
which can result in a higher energy bill.
Keep windows and doors closed to prevent heated/cooled air from escaping.
Have the evaporator coil cleaned to enhance heat transfer, moisture removal
and air flow—this can help you save up to 15 percent on your heating and
cooling costs.
COOLING (AIR CONDITION) SAVING TIPS
Turn your thermostat up in the summertime. For every degree you turn your thermostat
higher, you lower your energy consumption. (A 78-degree setting for air conditioner
uses 35% less energy than a 70-degree setting.)
Close the windows on very hot days and then open them at night to let the cooler
air in. If you have double-sash windows, open the top and bottom sash several
inches at night and the warmer air will be drawn out at the higher level.
Open doors and windows to take advantage of free comfort when you know the
outside temperature and humidity have dropped.
Try to cook early in the day or late in the evening when it is cooler, and
cook outdoors when possible.
Ceiling fans generate air movement (wind chill factor), which makes people
naturally feel cooler. Fans use only about one-tenth of the energy that air
conditioning does. So, use fans to make people feel cooler. However, if no one
is in the room to enjoy the air movement, the fans may be adding heat to the
room. In reality, fans do not lower the room temperature. Be sure to turn fans
off when no one is using them.
Use drapes, shutters, awnings, shade trees, glass with reflective film or solar
screens to keep sunlight out in the summer.
WATER HEATING SAVING TIPS
Consider switching your oil or electric water heater to an energy-efficient
natural gas water heater. Natural gas heats water more efficiently and quickly
so you have plenty of hot water when you need it. (It heats twice the water
for ½ the cost in comparison to an electric water heater).
Take shorter showers instead of baths. A shower saves 4 to 5 gallons of water.
Run your garbage disposal with cold water only.
Be sure your faucets are shut off tightly, especially the hot water.
If you have a gas water heater, remember to set it on "pilot or vacation"
when you go on vacation or whenever you are gone for two days or more. If you
have an electric water heater, turn it off unless freezing is a possibility.
Lower the thermostat setting on your hot water heater to setting of 120 degrees.
You can save up to 5% in energy consumption. (Note: some dishwashers require
a setting of 140 degrees. We suggest you check your owner's manual before you
take this step).
Be sure that dishwashers and washing machines are fully loaded before running.
Repair leaking hot water faucets. A leak of one drop per second wastes over
250 gallons of hot water a month. It's a simple and low-cost job to do and you
will see savings on your water bill.
Check your water heater manual for instructions and drain sediment from the
water heater tank at least annually. Removing sediment promotes proper heat
exchange and extends the life of the water heater. Check the website of your
water heater's manufacturer if you've misplaced your manual. Many are available
on-line.
CLOTHES DRYING SAVING TIPS
Consider switching your electric clothes dryer to a gas clothes dryer. A gas
dryer operates at 1/3 the cost of electric clothes dryer.
Organize your laundry load, dry clothes together which need the same time and
temperature, and try to dry full loads only.
Clean the lint filter before drying each load. A clogged filter makes the dryer
work harder and uses more energy to get clothes dry. Also clean the dryer drum
periodically to remove lint.
If the dryer has an automatic cycle, use it. Over-drying wastes energy and
increases wear and tear on clothes.
A vented dryer blows excess moisture and lint outdoors and cuts drying time.
Be sure the flap on the outside of the vent closes completely when the dryer
is not in use.
Dry your clothes outdoors on sunny days.
THERMOSTAT
Install a programmable thermostat and set it to accurately follow your schedule.
If no one is home during the day, there's no need to keep your house warm or
cold. Using a programmable thermostat, you can adjust the times you turn on
the furnace or air-conditioner according to a pre-set schedule. Programmable
thermostats can store and repeat multiple daily settings (six or more temperature
settings a day) that you can manually override without affecting the rest of
the daily or weekly program.
Clean your thermostat yearly to keep it accurate. Just remove its cover and
blow away accumulated dust.
To more closely monitor your thermostat, place an inexpensive thermometer next
to it. Use the thermometer to gauge the accuracy of your thermostat.
Make sure your thermostat is located on an interior wall. Keep sources of heat,
like lamps, stereos and televisions, away from the thermostat. They will interfere
with its ability to measure the room temperature accurately.
MISCELLANEOUS SAVING TIPS
Turn off all lights, televisions, radios and appliances when not in use.
Use low-wattage light bulbs and replace incandescent bulbs with fluorescent
ones whenever possible.
ENERGY SAVING RECOMMENDATIONS ($)
Put a vapor barrier such as polyethylene on top of the bare ground underneath
your home to prevent your home from absorbing a lot of moisture. Since between
25 percent and 33 percent of the energy used by an air conditioner goes into
moisture removal, this can have a nice impact on your energy bill. Also, exhaust
fans can help you remove the moisture that accumulates from cooking, bathing
and washing clothes.
Make storm windows out of sheets of plastic. For maximum effectiveness, we
recommend a thickness of at least 6-mil. Stretch the plastic as tightly as possible
to minimize air movement between the plastic and the window glass.
Tape clear plastic sheeting to the inside of your window frames if drafts,
water condensation, and frost are present. Install tight-fitting, insulating
window shades on windows that feel drafty after weatherizing.
Cover window air conditioners tightly on the inside with plastic or special
air conditioner covers. Also weather-strip around the air conditioner to seal
between it and the window frame.
Seal leaks and caulk around windows, outside doors, baseboards, exhaust fans,
dryer vents, places where pipes, ducts, and wires enter the house and where
the walls meet the foundation, with caulking or weather-stripping. Doing this
may seem insignificant, but a crack just one-sixteenth of an inch wide around
the circumference of an average-sized window lets about as much heated air escape
as would a three-inch square hole in the wall. Also, in places where your old
caulk has deteriorated, re-caulk to make an airtight seal.
Use insulated or heavy curtains, especially on windows facing north.
Put up thermal shades or shutters. They close very tightly and are one of the
most effective ways to stop heat loss through windows.
Replace broken windowpanes immediately. Cover the open pane temporarily with
a tight-fitting piece of cardboard. If you have a cracked pane, tape the crack
with weather-stripping or freezer tape until you are able to fix it.
Weather-strip doors and windows, even the doors of rooms you're not using,
as well as closet doors. Felt strips with adhesive backing or plastic V-strips
with adhesive backing are available at hardware and home improvement stores.
If there is a gap at the bottom of the door, attach a simple door sweep to seal
it off. Door-shoes or insulating thresholds last longer, but are harder to install.
Weather-strip any of your interior doors that lead to such places as the garage,
basement or attic. For added efficiency, insulate them on the cold side with
fiberglass batts.
If you have ceiling fans, make sure the mountings are snug and tight. Use clear
caulking to seal any leaks. Even minor cracks around the base can let in lots
of cold air.
Install flow restrictors or low flow faucets and low flow showerheads. These
devices can cut the cost of taking a hot shower in half. Flow restrictors cost
less than a dollar, are easily inserted into the showerhead and cut the flow
of water virtually in half.
Purchase some inexpensive, pre-cut insulation gaskets and seal out the cold
air entering your home through electrical switches and outlet plates, particularly
those on outside walls.
Stuff batt insulation or add foam sealant into any gaps where pipes and ducts
enter the living space from unheated portions of your home. Insulate ducts and
hot water pipes that pass through unheated areas. Start with one or two and
do others as you can.
Check the insulation in your attic, ceilings, exterior walls, basement walls,
floors, and crawlspaces to see if it meets the levels recommended for your area.
One of the more cost effective ways to make your home more comfortable year-round
is to add insulation in the attic. Add insulation whenever possible, perhaps
just a little bit at a time. Eventually you will have improved the whole house.
Insulate your electric water heater tank and pipes. Most experts recommend
not adding insulation to a gas-fueled water heater as this can create a fire
hazard.
Check your ducts for air leaks. First look for sections that have separated
and then look for obvious holes. Insulating ducts in unconditioned spaces is
usually very cost effective. Ducts are a hidden savings opportunity. You can
lose up to 60% of your heated air before it reaches the register if your ducts
aren't insulated and they travel through unheated spaces such as the attic or
crawlspace. Get a qualified professional to help you insulate and repair ducts.
Have your furnace/air conditioning system and gas appliances serviced annually
by a qualified contractor to ensure safety and maximum energy-efficiency.
Consider installing storm or thermal windows and doors or double-paned glass.
Replace your heating/cooling unit with a system of higher efficiency. When
buying a new heating/cooling system or appliance, compare energy-efficiency
ratings and annual operating costs. A slightly higher initial cost for a high-efficiency
unit could pay for itself in a very short time through energy savings and lower
utility bills.
Install attic ventilators, end gable louvers, continuous ridge vents, roof
louvers, soffit vents or roof turbines where possible. These are relatively
inexpensive and can prevent summer heat buildup as well as control moisture.
COOKING SAVING TIPS
When shopping for a new gas range, consider buying one with a pilotless ignition
system, which uses about 30 percent less gas than the models with continuously
burning pilots.
Partially thaw frozen foods in the refrigerator before cooking them. In many
cases, thawing foods allows you to reduce the recommended cooking time by 30
percent.
Preheat your oven as little as possible. Most foods don't require it. For foods
that require immediate heat, such as cakes, pies and soufflés, preheat
for 10 minutes only.
Don't turn your stove's burner on until all the food in your utensil is ready
to be cooked.
To reduce the amount of energy it takes to boil water, start with water that's
already hot from the tap. Also, use minimum amounts of water in cooking to save
both energy and food nutrients.
Turn your stove and range down to a simmer as soon as food or water begins
to boil. This lower setting maintains cooking temperature, cooks food more evenly
and saves energy.
\Resist the temptation to open the oven door to check on food while it's cooking.
Each time you open it, 25 percent of the oven's heat is wasted.
Plan your meals carefully. "Oven meals," where everything can be
cooked in the oven at approximately the same time and temperature, can avoid
using several appliances. Or "one-place" meals can combine cooking
several items in fry pans or dutch ovens.
Preparing individual servings when possible enables you to reduce oven-cooking
time. For instance, cooking a meatloaf in a full-sized pan takes 90 minutes,
while cooking individually sized meatloaf portions in a muffin tin requires
only 30 minutes of cooking time.
When possible, cook in oven-safe glass or ceramic pans. These allow you to
set your oven temperature 25° lower than a recipe calls for.
Turn off the oven about 15 to 20 minutes before the end of cooking time. The
leftover heat in the oven will finish the job, if you don't open the oven door.
Cover your pots and pans with properly fitting lids. Lids hold heat in and
food cooks faster.
Use the right size pot or pan for the right size range element. Exposed elements
or burners radiate their heat into the air, not into the pan.
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